Nur Abholung mit geeignetem Fahrzeug (Sprinter oder ähnlich). Kommt in Originalverpackung und auf Holzpalette. Wie ursprünglich geliefert. Inklusive Standfuß. Bei mir war er an der Wand montiert. Der LG 4K TV läuft einwandfrei, hat aber in der unteren linken Ecke einen Pixelfehler, der aber nicht weiter auffällt. Siehe Bilder. Daher der günstige Preis. Sende bei ernsthaftem Interesse gerne weitere Bilder. Technische Daten: 75SK8100PLA 189 cm (75 Zoll) Fernseher (Ultra HD, Triple Tuner, 4K Cinema HDR, Dolby Vision/Atmos Display Technologie: Nano Cell Display (2nd Gen.) IPS LCD 4K Panel Bildschirmdiagonale: 75 Zoll/189 cm Bildschirmauflösung: 3.840 x 2.160 Pixel HDR: 4K Cinema HDR (Dolby Vision, HDR10 Pro, HLG, Advanced HDR by Technicolor) Sound: 2.2-Soundsystem / Dolby Atmos / 40 Watt Prozessor: ?7 Intelligent-Prozessor Smart TV: webOS 4.0 (AI ThinQ) mit Magic Remote-Fernbedienung Nur Abholung mit einem Auto wo er reinpasst (am besten Sprinter oder ähnlich). Kann gerne vor Ort angeschaut werden. Originalkarton (auf Holzpalette) vorhanden. Bin Erstkäufer. Wie immer beim Privatverkauf, keine Garantie, Gewährleistung oder Rücknahme.

In short: Most of this power supply board works, but the INTEGRATED LED driver part does not part DOES NOT WORK. By default, the device will have NO BACKLIGHT! But: The backlight LEDs can be illuminated by using an external Mean Well LED driver (APC-35-350 will be supplied by default, but you can opt out if not needed). Connect the Mean Well driver to a 100V-240V power plug (NOT SUPPLIED, because it will be different for each country) using the brown and blue wire. Connect the other side to the power supply board (red wire to red wire, black wire to black wire). The turn-on signal will come from the power board, using a transistor in the red tape. The backlight will be dim (only like 20W), but its kind of usable. The board has resistors soldered onto it to make a current balancer for the external LED driver. The initial cause why it stopped working is probably some shorted windings inside the 18SUD-LM03 transformer. The transformer is not able to give out voltage that is high enough for the backlight. The transformer is still good for the 13V and 20V outputs. The chip with a lot of legs on the back of the board seems to be dead also, not sure. The primary side seems OK. I have written on the PCB that I replaced one resistor, and the old value of it. I didnt see any tracks cut through, but not sure, maybe there are. This setup will be sold as is without any warranty, but with a hope that it helps somebody to find the cause of a faulty TV and fix it. Its pretty usable, if you only need parts for desoldering. All except center transformer and main secondary side big chip should be in working condition.

In short: Most of this power supply board works, but the INTEGRATED LED driver part does not part DOES NOT WORK. By default, the device will have NO BACKLIGHT! But: The backlight LEDs can be illuminated by using an external Mean Well LED driver (APC-35-350 will be supplied by default, but you can opt out if not needed). Connect the Mean Well driver to a 100V-240V power plug (NOT SUPPLIED, because it will be different for each country) using the brown and blue wire. Connect the other side to the power supply board (red wire to red wire, black wire to black wire). The turn-on signal will come from the power board, using a transistor in the red tape. The backlight will be dim (only like 20W), but its kind of usable. The board has resistors soldered onto it to make a current balancer for the external LED driver. The initial cause why it stopped working is probably some shorted windings inside the 18SUD-LM03 transformer. The transformer is not able to give out voltage that is high enough for the backlight. The transformer is still good for the 13V and 20V outputs. The chip with a lot of legs on the back of the board seems to be dead also, not sure. The primary side seems OK. I have written on the PCB that I replaced one resistor, and the old value of it. I didnt see any tracks cut through, but not sure, maybe there are. This setup will be sold as is without any warranty, but with a hope that it helps somebody to find the cause of a faulty TV and fix it. Its pretty usable, if you only need parts for desoldering. All except main transformer and main secondary side big chip should be in working condition.

In short: Most of this power supply board works, but the INTEGRATED LED driver part does not part DOES NOT WORK. By default, the device will have NO BACKLIGHT! But: The backlight LEDs can be illuminated by using an external Mean Well LED driver (APC-35-350 will be supplied by default, but you can opt out if not needed). Connect the Mean Well driver to a 100V-240V power plug (NOT SUPPLIED, because it will be different for each country) using the brown and blue wire. Connect the other side to the power supply board (red wire to red wire, black wire to black wire). The turn-on signal will come from the power board, using a transistor in the red tape. The backlight will be dim (only like 20W), but its kind of usable. The board has resistors soldered onto it to make a current balancer for the external LED driver. The initial cause why it stopped working is probably some shorted windings inside the 18SUD-LM03 transformer. The transformer is not able to give out voltage that is high enough for the backlight. The transformer is still good for the 13V and 20V outputs. The chip with a lot of legs on the back of the board seems to be dead also, not sure. The primary side seems OK. I have written on the PCB that I replaced one resistor, and the old value of it. I didnt see any tracks cut through, but not sure, maybe there are. This setup will be sold as is without any warranty, but with a hope that it helps somebody to find the cause of a faulty TV and fix it. Its pretty usable, if you only need parts for desoldering. All except main transformer and main secondary side big chip should be in working condition.

In short: Most of this power supply board works, but the INTEGRATED LED driver part does not part DOES NOT WORK. By default, the device will have NO BACKLIGHT! But: The backlight LEDs can be illuminated by using an external Mean Well LED driver (APC-35-350 will be supplied by default, but you can opt out if not needed). Connect the Mean Well driver to a 100V-240V power plug (NOT SUPPLIED, because it will be different for each country) using the brown and blue wire. Connect the other side to the power supply board (red wire to red wire, black wire to black wire). The turn-on signal will come from the power board, using a transistor in the red tape. The backlight will be dim (only like 20W), but its kind of usable. The board has resistors soldered onto it to make a current balancer for the external LED driver. The initial cause why it stopped working is probably some shorted windings inside the 18SUD-LM03 transformer. The transformer is not able to give out voltage that is high enough for the backlight. The transformer is still good for the 13V and 20V outputs. The chip with a lot of legs on the back of the board seems to be dead also, not sure. The primary side seems OK. I have written on the PCB that I replaced one resistor, and the old value of it. I didnt see any tracks cut through, but not sure, maybe there are. This setup will be sold as is without any warranty, but with a hope that it helps somebody to find the cause of a faulty TV and fix it. Its pretty usable, if you only need parts for desoldering. All except main transformer and main secondary side big chip should be in working condition.

In short: Most of this power supply board works, but the INTEGRATED LED driver part does not part DOES NOT WORK. By default, the device will have NO BACKLIGHT! But: The backlight LEDs can be illuminated by using an external Mean Well LED driver (APC-35-350 will be supplied by default, but you can opt out if not needed). Connect the Mean Well driver to a 100V-240V power plug (NOT SUPPLIED, because it will be different for each country) using the brown and blue wire. Connect the other side to the power supply board (red wire to red wire, black wire to black wire). The turn-on signal will come from the power board, using a transistor in the red tape. The backlight will be dim (only like 20W), but its kind of usable. The board has resistors soldered onto it to make a current balancer for the external LED driver. The initial cause why it stopped working is probably some shorted windings inside the 18SUD-LM03 transformer. The transformer is not able to give out voltage that is high enough for the backlight. The transformer is still good for the 13V and 20V outputs. The chip with a lot of legs on the back of the board seems to be dead also, not sure. The primary side seems OK. I have written on the PCB that I replaced one resistor, and the old value of it. I didnt see any tracks cut through, but not sure, maybe there are. This setup will be sold as is without any warranty, but with a hope that it helps somebody to find the cause of a faulty TV and fix it. Its pretty usable, if you only need parts for desoldering. All except main transformer and main secondary side big chip should be in working condition.

In short: Most of this power supply board works, but the INTEGRATED LED driver part does not part DOES NOT WORK. By default, the device will have NO BACKLIGHT! But: The backlight LEDs can be illuminated by using an external Mean Well LED driver (APC-35-350 will be supplied by default, but you can opt out if not needed). Connect the Mean Well driver to a 100V-240V power plug (NOT SUPPLIED, because it will be different for each country) using the brown and blue wire. Connect the other side to the power supply board (red wire to red wire, black wire to black wire). The turn-on signal will come from the power board, using a transistor in the red tape. The backlight will be dim (only like 20W), but its kind of usable. The board has resistors soldered onto it to make a current balancer for the external LED driver. The initial cause why it stopped working is probably some shorted windings inside the 18SUD-LM03 transformer. The transformer is not able to give out voltage that is high enough for the backlight. The transformer is still good for the 13V and 20V outputs. The chip with a lot of legs on the back of the board seems to be dead also, not sure. The primary side seems OK. I have written on the PCB that I replaced one resistor, and the old value of it. I didnt see any tracks cut through, but not sure, maybe there are. This setup will be sold as is without any warranty, but with a hope that it helps somebody to find the cause of a faulty TV and fix it. Its pretty usable, if you only need parts for desoldering. All except main transformer and main secondary side big chip should be in working condition.

In short: Most of this power supply board works, but the INTEGRATED LED driver part does not part DOES NOT WORK. By default, the device will have NO BACKLIGHT! But: The backlight LEDs can be illuminated by using an external Mean Well LED driver (APC-35-350 will be supplied by default, but you can opt out if not needed). Connect the Mean Well driver to a 100V-240V power plug (NOT SUPPLIED, because it will be different for each country) using the brown and blue wire. Connect the other side to the power supply board (red wire to red wire, black wire to black wire). The turn-on signal will come from the power board, using a transistor in the red tape. The backlight will be dim (only like 20W), but its kind of usable. The board has resistors soldered onto it to make a current balancer for the external LED driver. The initial cause why it stopped working is probably some shorted windings inside the 18SUD-LM03 transformer. The transformer is not able to give out voltage that is high enough for the backlight. The transformer is still good for the 13V and 20V outputs. The chip with a lot of legs on the back of the board seems to be dead also, not sure. The primary side seems OK. I have written on the PCB that I replaced one resistor, and the old value of it. I didnt see any tracks cut through, but not sure, maybe there are. This setup will be sold as is without any warranty, but with a hope that it helps somebody to find the cause of a faulty TV and fix it. Its pretty usable, if you only need parts for desoldering. All except main transformer and main secondary side big chip should be in working condition.

In short: Most of this power supply board works, but the INTEGRATED LED driver part does not part DOES NOT WORK. By default, the device will have NO BACKLIGHT! But: The backlight LEDs can be illuminated by using an external Mean Well LED driver (APC-35-350 will be supplied by default, but you can opt out if not needed). Connect the Mean Well driver to a 100V-240V power plug (NOT SUPPLIED, because it will be different for each country) using the brown and blue wire. Connect the other side to the power supply board (red wire to red wire, black wire to black wire). The turn-on signal will come from the power board, using a transistor in the red tape. The backlight will be dim (only like 20W), but its kind of usable. The board has resistors soldered onto it to make a current balancer for the external LED driver. The initial cause why it stopped working is probably some shorted windings inside the 18SUD-LM03 transformer. The transformer is not able to give out voltage that is high enough for the backlight. The transformer is still good for the 13V and 20V outputs. The chip with a lot of legs on the back of the board seems to be dead also, not sure. The primary side seems OK. I have written on the PCB that I replaced one resistor, and the old value of it. I didnt see any tracks cut through, but not sure, maybe there are. This setup will be sold as is without any warranty, but with a hope that it helps somebody to find the cause of a faulty TV and fix it. Its pretty usable, if you only need parts for desoldering. All except main transformer and main secondary side big chip should be in working condition.

In short: Most of this power supply board works, but the INTEGRATED LED driver part does not part DOES NOT WORK. By default, the device will have NO BACKLIGHT! But: The backlight LEDs can be illuminated by using an external Mean Well LED driver (APC-35-350 will be supplied by default, but you can opt out if not needed). Connect the Mean Well driver to a 100V-240V power plug (NOT SUPPLIED, because it will be different for each country) using the brown and blue wire. Connect the other side to the power supply board (red wire to red wire, black wire to black wire). The turn-on signal will come from the power board, using a transistor in the red tape. The backlight will be dim (only like 20W), but its kind of usable. The board has resistors soldered onto it to make a current balancer for the external LED driver. The initial cause why it stopped working is probably some shorted windings inside the 18SUD-LM03 transformer. The transformer is not able to give out voltage that is high enough for the backlight. The transformer is still good for the 13V and 20V outputs. The chip with a lot of legs on the back of the board seems to be dead also, not sure. The primary side seems OK. I have written on the PCB that I replaced one resistor, and the old value of it. I didnt see any tracks cut through, but not sure, maybe there are. This setup will be sold as is without any warranty, but with a hope that it helps somebody to find the cause of a faulty TV and fix it. Its pretty usable, if you only need parts for desoldering. All except main transformer and main secondary side big chip should be in working condition.

In short: Most of this power supply board works, but the INTEGRATED LED driver part does not part DOES NOT WORK. By default, the device will have NO BACKLIGHT! But: The backlight LEDs can be illuminated by using an external Mean Well LED driver (APC-35-350 will be supplied by default, but you can opt out if not needed). Connect the Mean Well driver to a 100V-240V power plug (NOT SUPPLIED, because it will be different for each country) using the brown and blue wire. Connect the other side to the power supply board (red wire to red wire, black wire to black wire). The turn-on signal will come from the power board, using a transistor in the red tape. The backlight will be dim (only like 20W), but its kind of usable. The board has resistors soldered onto it to make a current balancer for the external LED driver. The initial cause why it stopped working is probably some shorted windings inside the 18SUD-LM03 transformer. The transformer is not able to give out voltage that is high enough for the backlight. The transformer is still good for the 13V and 20V outputs. The chip with a lot of legs on the back of the board seems to be dead also, not sure. The primary side seems OK. I have written on the PCB that I replaced one resistor, and the old value of it. I didnt see any tracks cut through, but not sure, maybe there are. This setup will be sold as is without any warranty, but with a hope that it helps somebody to find the cause of a faulty TV and fix it. Its pretty usable, if you only need parts for desoldering. All except main transformer and main secondary side big chip should be in working condition.

MAIN BOARD FOR LG 75 TV 75SK8100PLA EAX67895403 1.0 EBT65294602 SCREEN:LC750EQF (FL) (M2) Buy with Confidence, Fast Delivery Description Description MAIN AV BOARD Item Part Number. EAX67895403 1.0 Other Number MB:10 Stock NO: Compatibility: LG 75SK8100PLA Other info:All above part numbers of the power board are compatible with each other and will work in all mentioned tv models, you will receive the board with one of the above part numbers Informa INFORMThis board will work in all the models mentioned in the title.in the same model of TVs the Makers uses the different parts; so please make sure that the board same as yours and all the numbers should be the same from the board and the sticker; you need to open the back cover of your TV to check the part number of the original board you require and also the number of the sticker on the board. If any doubt about the item you need please contact us before purchasing the item. PLEASE VISIT MY SHOP FOR MORE TVs & MONITORS Parts, COMPUTERS, LAPTOPS AND ACCESSORIES Any questions please feel free to contact us through messages service.Please read term & condition before buy:Mission· AMK ELECTRONICS only goal is to satisfy its customers by providing the best products with very affordable best prices and outstanding service.· All items are fully tested and we will make every effort to deliver your product safely.Delivery· All goods will be dispatched same or next working days of receiving full payment.Returns· Please do not open a return request/case on as it will affect our performance rate and delay to issue you refund/replace.· We are happy to replace/refund if any item that is found to be faulty, damaged or not according to the listing, please let us know by messages and we will sort it out with you.· If you bought any item in error then let us know by messages and we will send you our return code and address.· All postage charges are calculated according to weight of item plus Postage charges & packaging material.· When returning the item please ensure you include your Name & item number in order to refund your payment immediately.Please be sure to add me to your favourites list! And visit my Shop

Set Lautsprecher (2) EAB64948303 Für LG 75SK8100PLA Original. LAUTSPRECHERSATZ (2) EAB64948303 FÜR TV LG 75SK8100PLA Ersatzteil eines zerbrochenen Bildschirm während des Transports. Funktioniert einwandfrei. Privater Verkauf, keine Garantie oder Rücknahme .

T-CON LVDS 6870C-0767A 6871L-5531A9 FOR LG 75SK8100PLA TV. Funktionsfähig Privater Verkauf, Keine Garantie oder Rücknahme

T-CON LVDS 6870C-0767A 6871L-5531A9 FOR LG 75SK8100PLA TV. Funktionsfähig Privater Verkauf, Keine Garantie oder Rücknahme

Set Lautsprecher (2) EAB64948303 Für LG 75SK8100PLA Original. LAUTSPRECHERSATZ (2) EAB64948303 FÜR TV LG 75SK8100PLA Ersatzteil eines zerbrochenen Bildschirm während des Transports. Funktioniert einwandfrei. Privater Verkauf, keine Garantie oder Rücknahme .

T-CON LVDS 6870C-0767A 6871L-5531A9 FOR LG 75SK8100PLA TV. Funktionsfähig Privater Verkauf, Keine Garantie oder Rücknahme

Set Lautsprecher (2) EAB64948303 Für LG 75SK8100PLA Original. LAUTSPRECHERSATZ (2) EAB64948303 FÜR TV LG 75SK8100PLA Ersatzteil eines zerbrochenen Bildschirm während des Transports. Funktioniert einwandfrei. Privater Verkauf, keine Garantie oder Rücknahme .

T-CON LVDS 6870C-0767A 6871L-5531A9 FOR LG 75SK8100PLA TV. Funktionsfähig Privater Verkauf, Keine Garantie oder Rücknahme

Set Lautsprecher (2) EAB64948303 Für LG 75SK8100PLA Original. LAUTSPRECHERSATZ (2) EAB64948303 FÜR TV LG 75SK8100PLA Ersatzteil eines zerbrochenen Bildschirm während des Transports. Funktioniert einwandfrei. Privater Verkauf, keine Garantie oder Rücknahme .

T-CON LVDS 6870C-0767A 6871L-5531A9 FOR LG 75SK8100PLA TV. Funktionsfähig Privater Verkauf, Keine Garantie oder Rücknahme

Set Lautsprecher (2) EAB64948303 Für LG 75SK8100PLA Original. LAUTSPRECHERSATZ (2) EAB64948303 FÜR TV LG 75SK8100PLA Ersatzteil eines zerbrochenen Bildschirm während des Transports. Funktioniert einwandfrei. Privater Verkauf, keine Garantie oder Rücknahme .